http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1606.html

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Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Horticulture and Crop Science

2021 Coffey Rd., Columbus, Ohio 43210-1086

Growing Carrots in the Home Garden

HYG-1606-93

Pamela J. Bennett

Because they are easy to grow and a wonderful source of Vitamin A, carrots are an excellent crop in the home garden. The new varieties are easy to grow and make a great addition to children's gardens.

Climatic Requirements

The carrot is a hardy, cool season crop that can be planted in the garden as soon as the soil can be prepared in the spring. Carrots require relatively large amounts of moisture and are not tolerant of drought. Prolonged hot weather in the later stages of development may not only retard growth but result in an undesirable strong flavor and coarseness in the roots. At the other extreme, prolonged temperatures below 55 degrees F tend to make the roots longer, more slender and paler in color than expected. The best temperature for highest quality roots is between 60 and 70 degrees F.

Soils

Carrot plants thrive in deep, loose, well-drained soil. Avoid stony, cloddy or trash-laden soils as they increase the incidence of root defects. Because raised-beds usually have loose soil and receive little compaction from foot traffic, they are an ideal location to grow carrots. Carrots grown on heavy soils may produce considerable leaf growth and forked roots. Carrot plants do not grow well in strongly acid soils; therefore, a pH range of 6.0 to 6.8 should be maintained for best results.

Fertilizers

Fertilizers and lime are best applied to soils for carrot production using soil test results as a guide. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local Extension office. Carrots require large amounts of plant nutrient elements, particularly potassium, for good production. A fertilizer with the ratio of 1-2-2 such as a 5-10-10 analysis would be appropriate at the time of seeding and again when tops are three to four inches tall and six to eight inches tall. Too much manure and fertilizer applied just before seeding can result in forked roots.

Establishing the Planting

Direct seed carrots into a well-prepared soil early in the spring. Suggested planting depth is 1/4 inch deep in rows spaced 12 to 18 inches or more apart depending on the method of cultivation used. It is important to avoid crusting of the soil around the seed-bed. Covering the seed with vermiculite or fine compost and keeping the soil evenly moist until the seedlings have emerged will help prevent this problem.

After the seedlings have emerged, thin them to one inch apart. When the tops of the carrots grow thicker, thin them to about two to three inches apart. Some seed companies are now offering pelletized seed, making the seeds easier to plant and thin.

Cultural Practices

After plants are established, applied mulches will help conserve moisture and suppress weed growth. Cultivation, if necessary, should be shallow in order to avoid root injury. Carrots require an evenly-distributed and plentiful soil moisture supply throughout the growing season. However, avoid too much moisture towards the end of the season as this will cause roots to crack.

Watch for the appearance of orange crowns at the soil level as the plants mature. If this occurs, mulch with soil or compost as the sunlight will turn them green. Potential pest problems include leafhoppers, wireworms, carrot rust worm larvae, aster yellow, leaf spot and soft rot. Contact your local Extension office for current control recommendations.

Harvesting and Storage

Harvest can begin when carrots are finger size. In general, the smaller carrots are juicier and more tender. You do not have to harvest the entire crop at once. They can remain in the soil until you are ready to use them. Carrots will last until winter in the soil if mulched well. Carrots are best stored at temperatures near freezing in a moist environment.

Varieties

Choosing a variety depends upon your preference and your soil type. Shorter types such as Red-Cored Chantenay and Short and Sweet are better suited for heavy soils. Other varieties include Nantes Half-long, Danvers Half-long, Pioneer and Spartan Bonus. Gourmet varieties such as Little Finger are also excellent in container gardens. Below are some varieties and their characteristics.

Red-Cored Chantenany - 6 inch roots, grow well in heavy clay soils, crisp and tender, red-orange cola to the core.
Danvers Half Long - Tapered roots average 6-1/2 to 7-inches long, heavy yields and good storage capabilities.
Little Finger - 3 to 5 inches long and 1/2 inch across, exceptionally high sugar content, performs well in heavy soils.
Thumberline - 2-inch golf ball sized round carrot, excellent for heavy clay soils.

Additional Extension publications that may be useful include:

Bulletin 287, Home Vegetable Gardening and
Bulletin 736, Vegetables for Ohio Gardens.

The author gratefully acknowledges James D. Utzinger, William B. Brooks and E. C. Wittmeyer, on whose fact sheet this is based.

This fact sheet was reviewed by Marianne Riofrio, Dr. Robert Precheur and E.C. Wittmeyer.

All educational programs conducted by Ohio State University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation, national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran status.

Keith L. Smith, Associate Vice President for Ag. Adm. and Director, OSU Extension.

TDD No. 800-589-8292 (Ohio only) or 614-292-1868

The following is taken from the Texas A&M website. Please contact us if this is a violation and it will be removed.

Easy Gardening...Carrots
Sam Cotner, Extension Horticulturist
Texas Agricultural Extension Service
Carrots grow best in cool temperatures of early spring and late fall. Night temperatures of 55 degrees and day temperatures of 75 degrees are ideal for carrots. High temperatures cause poorly colored, low quality carrots. They will grow in some shade and do well in small gardens and flower beds.
Soil Preparation and Fertilization
Carrots do best in loose, sandy loam soils which are well drained. In heavy soils they mature slower and often the roots are rough and unattractive.
Clear the soil surface of rocks, trash and large pieces of plant material. Small, fine pieces of plant material can be turned under for soil enrichment.
Spade the soil 8-12 inches deep. Turn the soil completely over so all plant material is covered. Scatter 1 cup of complete fertilizer such as 10-20-10 on the soil for each 10 feet of row to be planted. Using a rake, work the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches.
Smooth the soil and work it up into beds as shown. Beds allow good movement of air and water through the soil. Place carrot rows 1-2 feet apart. If ridges are farther apart, plant two rows of carrots on each ridge.
Planting
Begin planting carrots as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. In South Texas plant carrots any time from July through February. In many South Texas areas carrots can be grown all winter. For a fall crop in other areas, plant in August.
Using a hoe handle or stick, make one or two rows 1/2-inch deep on top of each prepared ridge. Scatter 18-20 seeds per foot in the row. Since carrot seeds require 14-21 days to sprout, many gardeners mix a few radish seeds, which sprout quickly, with carrot seeds to mark the row. Cover the seeds lightly. Sprinkle the row with water often to prevent crusting or cover the seeds with vermiculite or sand. This is especially helpful for crops planted in hot summer months.
Thin carrot plants to 2 inches apart when tops are 4 inches high. Some carrots will be large enough to eat. Thin the carrots to 4 inches apart as they continue to grow. Overcrowding and rocky soils result in poor quality roots. If radishes were mixed with the carrots, pull and eat them as they mature.
Five to 10 feet of row per person should supply enough fresh carrots for table use. One foot of row will yield about 1 pound of carrots.
Varieties

Danvers 126
Nantes
After Planting
Keep carrots free of weeds, especially when they are small. Weeds use nutrients and moisture and cause reduced carrot yields. Scratch the soil lightly around the plants to prevent crusting. Water the plants as required to keep the soil moist to a depth of about 3 inches. Scatter 2 tablespoons of fertilizer per 10 feet of row beside the plants when the tops are about 4 inches high. Fertilize again when tops are 6-8 inches high if the tops become pale.
Insects

Name and description Control
1/2-to 1 1/2-inches long; yellow to white, dark head and tail; slender; feeds on root Diazinon

up to 1 1/4 inches long; dull gray, brown to black; striped or spotted, soft bodied, smooth; curls up when touched; cuts off young plants near soil level Diazinon
Before using a pesticide read the label. Always follow cautions, warnings and directions.
Diseases
Carrots are troubled by some diseases. If leaf spots appear on plants, dust them with an approved fungicide. If a plant becomes yellow and stunted, remove it from the garden. If the roots have knots on them, your soil may have nematodes. Ask your county Extension agent or gardening assistant about disease control.
Harvesting
Carrots should be ready for harvest 70-80 days after planting. Pull them when the roots are 1-1 1/2 inches in diameter. Loosen the soil around the carrot with a spade to avoid breaking the carrot while pulling. To prevent roots from wilting after harvest, remove carrot tops and place them in the compost pile.
Wash carrots and store in the bottom of the refrigerator. Place them in a plastic bag for increased humidity. Carrots will keep several weeks with high humidity and a temperature near 32 degrees.
Serve carrots cooked or raw by themselves or in salads. They are an excellent source of Vitamin A and add color to a meal.
Clean-Up
Pull unused carrots and place in a compost pile or spade into the soil.

Hypertext markup by Tammy Kohlleppel, Gretchen Eagle and Dan Lineberger. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/easygardening/carrot/carrot.html

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